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26 polo frame geometry project

26 polo frame geometry project
26 polo frame geometry project

Ok after trying 26" polo bike im done for it, so im trying to draw a geometry that would fit me, im short and i really like hoping everywhere. I tried this days a marino bike with a 5,8 trail and i loved it. So here is my actual project, can someone have a look and telle me if something don't gonna work on it?

Im foreseeing a bent seat post and/or a damaged seat-tube in your future.

the way iv seen frame geometry, a good fit and design shouldn't cause the rider/builder to compensate with extra-long or extra short components to ride and feel perfect.

Also, I would tighten up your crown-axle length, (1.75 tire is plenty for a polo fork)
that should keep the bars lower, and keep one in a more agressive sprint-worthy position.

request an oversized seat post size too. They are slightly annoying to find, but not having to worry about it breaking or bending, is a huge load off my shoulders.

note: I am not a frame designer or builder, just sharing what Iv tried to learn throughout my 7 years in bikes and 3 years in polo.

Is there a reason you choose to have the top tube go downward like a MTB? Seems like you could get your top tube level, extend your seat tube, and take on a steeper seat stay angle. This would lower the length of your seat post.

Also, you're basing this off of a 170mm crank, are you playing clipless? Will you have toe clearance? What size of tire is this based off of? The pic is small, but it looks like "313.8" (mm?) which can't be right.

Combination of choice: Smash + Bang

I don't see what's wrong with a longer seat post if that's what he wants. I really don't think its an easy thing to bend. I personally enjoy having a top tube that makes contact with the thigh, I think it adds control, but Clement isnt lacking in that regard and he's been using a bike like this already.

Just can't remember the last time I saw a sloped tt and a longer post as the thing to cause trouble. Especially for a smaller guy, I think it would be fine.

I don't have anything against a long seat post or sloped top tube. I have both on the MTB I play polo on. I was just asking some questions to better understand his goals and design objectives.

I'm interested in this, because I'm looking to have a build this year. 26" platform for me (5'9")

Combination of choice: Smash + Bang

I want a sloppey bike for some reason:
-good looking
-get rid of top tube in knees when i bunny hop

170 cranck, spd, yes. No toe clearance.
Im gonna take 1.35 kojak schwable.

Here is where i am right now.

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You sure the sloped top tube is not going to end up directly where your knees are?

I've been on a loaner bike for a couple months, it's a Kona with more of a BMX geometry. The inside of my knees are getting torn up.

Another SF player, one who hops more/better than anyone, had a new 1x1 with the sloped design. None of us liked it much. He quickly replaced it.

I think trials/BMX top tubes are WAY below the knees. Not sure it makes sense for polo. I'm anxiously awaiting a new Joust wide and expect to do tweaking on the stem/bar setup. (Come on Fleetvelo and ship my bike!)

Also, my loaner bike has bars at or just above the level of my seat. My old bike had them considerably below my seat. I think above the seat is better for being upright and hopping.

i actually ride a non sloppey bike, and my old kona wasn't so sloppey too. And every time i jump and turn at the same time (like 90°) it hit my knees badly. I tried a sloppey 700 and it seems to work better, less tube between my knees, less hits...

About the handlebars above seat, i prefer to keep a more athletic position. I actually ride same heights than on the sketch, and it works.

Thanks for thanking time to make some comments buddies.

have you tried riding bmx cranks, they are angled out from the frame more so your feet and legs are further from the frame, might stop your knees hitting when you jump and twist. i have a top tube protector on my trick bike to help with the knee slapping

Gosh that's a really good point.
On my old set up i ran a trial crankset and didnt get any trouble with knees (sloppey TT too). And now im riding a friend bike with a normal crankset, and i f* hurt my knees every time. Probably that this factor is also or even more important than the top tube angle.


I have 2 choices for the fork right now:
-aluminium trial echo urban 26, v-brake and disc
-400mm a-c 30mm offset

-Steel Pfix v-brake
-around 1 kg i assume
-417mm a-c 31mm offset

I'd definitely go with the disc brake fork. Of course that only makes sense if you ride a front disc but that seems to be the trend, at least around here in europe.
If you don't necessarily have to take one of those two offers, the "Mosso" fork mentioned here
probably is the cheapest and lightest fork available (also available as disc only). You'd have to google for the offset though...

It looks a little like my new bike..
From Tonta Polo v1.1

This is very similar to what I plan on. Nice.

Combination of choice: Smash + Bang

zero rake fork? you guys is crasy

Yes and why crazy? It handles like a charme, turns sharp as a razor but is still stable enough to pick your nose while hitting a ball..

I have too. People wonder always who never try zero rake forks. I think this is the best for polo. :)

The Bisons

What are the advantages and disadvantages of a zero rake fork? I think they look great, and would be easier to handle, but just curious what others think.

Talking about a 0-rake fork by itself is pointless. You also have to factor in the headtube angle. This bike's HT angle isn't super steep, so a 0-rake fork is probably a justified choice.

Also, radical barspin goals, dawg.

Combination of choice: Smash + Bang

My zero rake fork drastically improved the handling on my bike. But, I ride a Diamondback with a slopey HT... I'm actually trying to find a new frame (want shorter tt and chainstays) and sticking with 26".

shotgun your bike!

Nice bike ewoud... can't wait to be back in Damski...

You will like it indeed (price is Dutch as well)..
Hope to see you soon!

Project done for me.

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Finally here:
Fucking light, 9,1 kg. 1mm thick Stainless steel front triangle feel awesome. (info about it here: http://www.kvastainless.com/tubing-info.html )
Really nice to handle, feel quickly respnsive but stable enough.

Made by Sammy from moteur fuckers team. brand name : BANK ROBBER:

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Looks great! I like how far back the seat is set. Wheelies!!!

looks sick, a bit like a freestyle bike, id say youll be throwing it around the court

Love The Look Of This Bike!

A good advantage of te sloppey, you don't fuck your lever when you barspin in crash.
Plus that's how I expected: when I get me feets horizontals my knees are over the top bar, wich avoid bad hits to happens.

To get some rigidity in the seat tube and post we let a good 10cm offset on the seat tube over the top tube.

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